SmartSide is a line of treated engineered wood siding. Created with the look of cedar, the siding is strong and durable and resistant to moisture, termites and fungal decay, without the knots and splits found in natural wood panels. Produced in long panels, the siding can be difficult to install alone, but with the aid of a helper or two, and careful attention to instructions, installation can be quick and easy, and when finished with a layer of paint, can provide a beautiful covering for any home.
Wall Preparation
Before installing SmartSide siding you'll have to prepare the surface of the building. Any exposed wood that you're applying the siding to must be covered with a waterproof coating. Prime and paint the surfaces with a waterproof exterior paint or asphalt-saturated felt paper for best results. If installing on a masonry wall, you will need to apply a wall furring to the surface. Wall furring requires that you place strips of wood, metal or masonry tiles to the wall in order to create a flat surface to work with.
Inspect the surface you're installing the siding to, filling any gaps with a non-hardening paintable sealant before beginning the installation. During the inspection, let the siding sit exposed to the weather to adjust to local conditions. On the day of installation, keep the siding on a flat surface raised above ground and under a waterproof covering while it sits. If you need to cut the siding, cut it either face-up using a hand saw, or face-down with a power saw.
Siding Installation
Establish a straight reference line for the first course of siding. This line is where you'll be placing the bottom edge of the siding, and should be parallel to your building's eaves. In order to create the reference line, measure downward from the eaves at consistent points along the side of the building, and mark each point with a chalk mark. The line should be at least 6 inches above the ground.
Nail a starter strip to the wall 1/4 inch above the line. Nail only where wall studs are located. Install the first course of siding, overlapping the bottom edge on the starter strip, and then work from the center of the plank, nailing the siding into the wall. Each strip has a built-in groove for providing level overlap. Use hot-dipped galvanized nails for installation with a minimum head diameter of 1/4 inch, and be sure nails penetrate into the frame 1 1/2 inches or more, with the nails firmly placed against the siding without denting the surface. Nail through both the top and bottom planks to hold them securely into place.
If the wall is uneven use shims at the studs underneath the siding to create a smooth panel line, raising it slightly. At vertical butt joints, where two lengths of siding join, leave a gap of 3/16 inch, filling the gap with caulk. Stagger butt joints on each course run, but make sure they fall only on wall studs. Gaps should also be left where the siding meets window and door trim. Once installed, the siding can be painted to your taste.
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